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Souvenirs to leave behind

At this time of year, bottles carefully brought home from southern Europe are traditionally opened all over northern Europe in a fever of anticipation. But those who expect their treasured wine mementoes to prolong the warmth and languor of the summer holiday just past are all too often disappointed. The red, white or rosé that tasted so glorious on a vine-shaded terrace seems just plain ordinary under grey skies. Cue the perennial question: why doesn’t this wine travel?

Except that it is rarely the wine’s fault. That wine tasting is a subjective experience is vividly illustrated by this frustrating phenomenon. It is almost invariably ourselves, our mood and our environment that have changed rather than the wine. Modern wine is made to withstand long journeys. Many a bottle on a British supermarket shelf was trucked across the Channel only days before.

Recommendations

REDS

Ch Prieuré Borde-Rouge, Ange 2004 Corbières

Fully mature mountain wine – more pleasurable than Ch Lafite 1998, tasted the day before.

£15.50 incl delivery, www.winehunters.co.uk

www.jancisrobinson.com For more columns visit www.ft.com/robinson Copyright The Financial Times Limited 2008

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